Tuesday, April 28, 2015

Pemuteran to Ubud, Bali: sun, cloud and a late nasty storm! 30

Dinner and a Movie

I'm sitting here in Ubud having spent the day driving south back across the island with Gede Ari and his wife Kumon. The highlight today was a stop at the Unesco World Heritage Site of Jatiluwih where there is an exceptional array of terraced rice fields. We had invited our young couple to be our guests at lunch which we enjoyed from a restaurant overlooking the rice fields. Quite the sight in spite of the on and off rain. Unfortunately, I'm having a data transfer problem tonight and can't transfer today's photos to my iPad at this moment...so no photos...except Annemarie took a few, so here are her shots...the small part she saw at least!

After lunch I left the others to enjoy coffee and went for a walk through the terraces. This proved to be a wonderful way to see the fields and also to stretch my legs after our limited walking of late. This was a great way to spend the day and we are presently residing in a lovely villa for the next four nights which was a retirement gift for Annemarie from the kids and I. Nice that I get to participate! 

However, this post is really about yesterday. After a lazy morning of snorkelling and munching on a meal or two we were picked up late in the afternoon by Ari and his cousin and taken to his parent's house where we were expected for dinner! Along the way there some shopping to be done. The first stop was the fish market where we were told to stay in the car because the if the owners saw them with tourists (us) the negotiated price would jump considerably. Always supportive of a bargain, we did stay in the van, but watched the process from a distance. The next stop was the super market which was tucked away so deeply along a city street that we would never have found it on our own. The reason for this stop was to allow me to purchase wine and beer to bring to dinner. We were told not to bring anything, but when we told Ari that this was our custom, he readily agreed. Now the rules for buying beer and wine in stores have just changed in Bali to help reduce accidents and incidences, so it turned out that we couldn't buy our supplies at this particular grocery store. Fortunately we were able to do so at the small store in the family village...no wine available, so I bought a significant supply of the large 750 ml bottles of beer and off we went to Ari's cousins house...where we had visited with he and his family a few days earlier (see earlier photo). While we watched, Ari's cousin climbed high up into a coconut tree...it was actually very high...and he picked about four huge coconuts. Can you see his arm?
From there, Ari invited us to walk through his village and out to his parent's property so that we could meet the locals and see some of the stunning scenery. The beer, fish and coconuts continued on to the house without us. So there we were minding our own business, meeting and greeting when we were joined by part of the neighbourhood juvenile bike squad! Five of them at least...
We continued along our way through the country side. Very beautiful...and indeed the neighbours did call out words of welcome and wave it us. It was very nice to be welcomed as we walked along.

The Bali Bike Gang continued to tail us after I used my tried and proven technique to make friends in developing countries...take their photo and show it to them. Guaranteed positive results. They followed as we ended up at the local elementary school.
Pretty basic class rooms...
We walked on...
As we walked our numbers continued to swell....a regular parade was developing!
These fields belong to Putu, Ari's father.

Finally we arrived and the chopping commenced in earnest. That's Ari's father Putu on the right and his cousin on the left. 
What they were preparing was drinks for Annemarie and I. 
The freshest coconut milk one could ever wish for! It was brilliant! Then the cooking started. This is Adis uncle who has the fastest knife in town and is the best chef in the village.
Ari's wife, Kumon, preparing something hot...
Then it was time to help Ari's other uncle prepare the sauté. It's pork, hot chilies, spices and coconut all massed up together and put on strips of bamboo to cook over the BBQ.
Speaking of the bbq, they built the fire just outside the kitchen door and fuelled it with the husks from the coconuts. 
Fish was on.
While things were cooking I went up stairs to see what was happening on the roof, and ended up showing a few photos and short movies from our trip. An appreciative audience!
Ari and his father then put each of us on the back of a motor bike and speed us up the road to the home of the couple whose wedding we had attended the prior day. This was before dinner was served. We were warmly welcomed to a celebration well underway there. The celebration was for their new child who had reached his third month, a special moment in each family. What was really unusual is that the entertainment was provided by traditional puppeteers. 
We were treated as honoured guests and placed directly in front of the screen...this is shadow puppetry. Coffee and delicious sweets were provided and we were given quite the show. At one point I gave up my seat to the new bride and her baby and was invited by an old fella holding his grandson to sit behind the screen where I could watch the backstage show unfold. Sandals off I sat cross legged for quite some time on a bench. There is the main puppeteer who uses hand carved leather figures and props including large sugar cane posts to hold his puppets in place. He has an assistant behind him to pass the various puppets forward and there are two musicians playing all the music on what appear to be ancient xylophones with pipes that the bang with sticks. The puppeteer makes all the voices, sings the songs and tells a story that is never the same twice. Lots of laughter from the surrounding audience, at least those who understood!
Ari told us that when he was a kid, not that long ago, that this was the only entertainment available. Now with TV and video games it's more difficult to keep these traditions alive in some villages. Certainly this will be a challenge in the coming years, to keep tradition while moving forward with technology.
Once we had said our goodbyes to the wedding family, we rode back down to the house for dinner, to find that everyone else had already eaten and were well into my beer!! They had cooked us a partially separate meal to somewhat reduce the spice load, knowing full well that our stomachs wouldn't be up to the challenge. The locals eat their food very heavily spiced and it's so hot! We ate with Ari while his father kept us company. Eating was in the traditional Indonesian manner, right hand only, no cutlery. We had some fun with this process, believe me! 
The food was excellent, and yes, still very spicy. My stomach is still recovering today. Then it was time for dessert, talk, beer and party games!
Look very closely at this...very closely. 
I've never seen anything like it! Ari's uncle the chef does this when he drinks a bit too much, and he had done so tonight! Ari told me that he had never seen this before either and he was equally amazed.

Once dinner was over Ari drove us home in the pitch dark with lightening flashing all around us. It stormed and rained all night! 

We will hang out here until Saturday when we fly to Seattle and then take the ferry home. If the weather permits we plan to climb the local volcano. However, the rainy season arrived late this year and appears to be departing late as well. No point in getting up at 4am to hike up if the peak is covered in cloud as it has been every day since we arrived. If it keeps raining I'll have time to work on my new party trick!

Sunday, April 26, 2015

Pemuteran, Bali: 30, cloudy

Canadian Wedding Crashers!

Ari picked us up very early. Equipped with our boxed breakfast of fried egg sandwiches and potato fries (I kid you not) and dressed in our cleanest travel clothes, we headed east to Ari's village an hour away. Today was special because we had been invited to attend his friend's wedding! Really. We were invited to attend a Balinese wedding!! 

This a photo of the morning market in Ari's village where we stopped to purchase some gifts for the wedding. 
We arrived at his parents house and met his father, his 7 month pregnant wife and his brother (later his sister). Ari and his wife, Kumon, helped us to dress in the traditional sarong and clothing for festivals and celebrations. The men's clothes involve several layers and are quite elaborately prepared and tied. The male of he species is then topped off with the traditional head gear called an udeng, of which I am now a very proud owner!
The way it worked is that the groom drove by Ari's parents place and called out that it was time to go. We followed in Ari's car and when we arrived in the village, the city elder (Ari's cousin) was picked up by the groom's family. We then followed them along the back roads to the bride's village.
We gathered with the men who were all dressed as snazzy as I was and watched as the women led the way into the temple carrying the items required for the ceremony...
And then we joined the walk to the temple...
At first our presence seemed to create something of a distraction, a couriosity. But as everyone became a bit more use to us they began to settle in. It was clear that tourists were never seen in this village or Ari's village for that matter. A real novelty.
 

The village elders and senior men sit up on the raised platform cross legged and usually smoking. 
And then the priests (one from each village) set up their table of gifts and offerings...and prepare for the ceremony.
At some point the wedding begins...the moment when it started wasn't very clear to us novices. However it seemed to open with tea, coffee and sweet cakes being passed first to the senior men

...then to the guests who are sitting wherever the mood takes them...people casually come and go through the entire event.
The bride and groom are present throughout. There is no grand entrance.
Nervous groom on the right. This is the single most important event in their lives. Divorce is rare, so this is pretty much for keeps...you hope to get it right.
The elders and fathers of the bride and groom begin to chat and exchange pleasantries while they enjoy refreshment and share cigarettes. Then the serious negotiations begin. In this case there is a small problem...about three months old.
This couple have recently become parents and a resolution must be reached to satisfy the parents of the bride, and also the community because a young woman is being taken from their village. So actually, two problems. A settlement is agreed upon, in this case 100,000 rupia, the equivalent of $10 paid to the village. If you read Annemarie's cultural blog posting you will recall that this represents a fairly large payment, but we were told that it could have been higher. The groom's family are not at all wealthy. Then the speeches begin and go back and forth between the elders and both families, each 'side' taking turns in rotation.
In the mean time the guests become a bit distracted...wandering in and out of the temple courtyard.

The speaches drone on...
...and on.
...and on.
And then quite suddenly it comes to a conclusion with all agreements reached and money formally exchanged...
and the signing of the registry finalizes events.
The elders all touch a sacred item as a priest circulates the plateform, confirming witness to the bride price agreement and the marriage. Oh yes, one last small problem has also been resolved. Tomorrow is the baby's 3 month community introduction ceremony, but because of the pre-wedding birth it has been agreed that the young family cannot enter the main temple. However, it has been agreed that they can celebrate the three month occasion in this secondary location. It's a big deal, the introduction ceremony, so the resolution is important to both families and the community.
The happy couple!
With the wedding ceremony concluded, Ari walked us through the village showing off his Canadians to the locals...most of whom weren't frankly too interested! 

Then we drove back to Ari's home...a very beautiful drive.
We reconnected with his sister who at 21 years is studying to become a nurse...
And then it was off to the groom's parents place for the party! Those are the traditional gifts of rice and sugar cane Ari is holding. We presented an envelop with money that was graciously accepted. 

We were very nicely welcomed and Geoff quickly became the official photographer as they just didn't have a camera even on their phones. So I was it. No pressure! No matter what I tried the bride wouldn't smile, but we later learned this is normal, but she was very pleased when she found out that I would be sending all the photos to Ari who will arrange prints for them. Nice.
We were given the keys to the house and moved freely around the very humble dwelling. Every corner and room I passed around and into I was graciously received and usually my arrival generated much discussion and laughter. I thought I was pretty well dressed? Truly nicely received. Such warm people the Balinese. This is the kitchen.
The temporary kitchen set up for the party. 
I immediately hit it off with this lady and was introduced to her two boys, who soon smiled when I showed them their photo!

The ladies were making pink crepes with a sugar and coconut filling...so good!!! They made me one right on the spot and sent us home with a few that we will have after dinner tonight...yum!
We ate all sorts of unusual things with our tea. There was a card game in the back room and I was made welcome there as well. With the help of the gents I sampled the local poison called arak...some 40+ proof! This before lunch! I napped later.
This is the primary chef in the village...remember him as I think he will show up again tomorrow on our next outing:-)
Mean while, I returned to find that many of the local women has approached Annemarie and of course she connected nicely with their children.
Waves and many farewells, followed by the long drive home. Tomorrow we expect to reconnect with some of these folks, but that's a story for tomorrow. 

Our connection with Ari has become personal, not so much about his driver business. He wasn't asking to be paid for today. It was more about sharing a Baliese experience as we had expressed our interest very early on about his culture. Of course we chipped in to cover the petrol cost and 'incidentals' and he was pretty pleased about that. We have since read that the opportunity to be invited to an Indonesian wedding is very rare, and that if you are invited it is considered an honour. One of those times when we were in the right place at the right time and we're open to an opportunity. 

I know this is a very long post, but the day was truly special. Besides its my travel journal;-)  Open moments like this have defined my first year of life after ending formal work. That year fully arrives in just 4 days. Amazing... I wonder what could possibly top the amazing experiences we have had on this journey? I'm very open to finding out...

Pumukkale Sunset

Kayaking at Kekova