Part 2:
Not surprisingly royalty and the wealthy of the day enjoyed privilege during the Dutch Golden Age just as those with wealth do today…smaller, but the world is much the same. On the back of one of our Fietskaart (bike maps 1:50,000…WARNING, if you read this blog you will be forced to absorb a little Dutch!) we found a circular route pretty much designed to lead a cyclist (or two) through the area where many castles and summer homes were built during the Golden Age. This was a time when the Dutch Masters were hard at work creating some of my personal favorites employing the use of light and depth as it had never been seen before. Their work is so excellent that it has become an amazing record of the time period. When I can talk Annemarie into it I enjoy sneaking an hour or two at one of Amsterdam’s famous museums (I am one of many admirers of the Rijk’s Museum)…maybe at the end of our Holland visit…
Today has been all about pretty, quiet country roads passing through a scenic area SE of Utrecht on a 45km loop. Not very long, but sufficient to get a bit more comfortable on our bikes, calibrate the bike computer which I set up early this morning and to adjust the seats for better comfort. We will appreciate this tomorrow as we undertake our first long leg of approx 80kms. The ride was fun with the high-light being a ‘hill climb’ to the top of one of the massive dikes that line the Nederrijn River (part of Rhine River delta) close to the small town of Amerongen (not pronounced as its spelled!). It was special as its mill was working, meaning the sails were on the cross struts of the windmill and it was, well… it was working! Another high-light was the Wednesday open market in Driebergen-Rijsenburg (not pronounced like it looks…hey, don’t ask me…I give it my best effort, but Annemarie always corrects me!). Anyway, at the market I went looking for our first fresh, warm Stroop Waffels and almost at risk of not finding them…there they were! Two freshly cooked round wafers (6” wide) with lovely syrup in between. We only had one each, but for sure there will be more along the way. After all…with our daily exercise we can pretty much eat whatever we want and still drop a few pounds…maybe!
Taking Win out for dinner to thank him for his generosity, so must sign off and go pack my gear for our 8:30 departure on the ‘Tour de Nederland’…with a good Dutch beer…of course!! Tot ziens!
Thursday, May 31, 2012
Can You Remember the Numbers?
This is Part 1 of 2…we have been without internet since we arrived.
On arrival we tended to the usual organizational items that had to be accomplished prior to getting underway. We were met by Puck at Schiphol…what a special treat! By chance Puck was on her way to Haarlem to visit her sister and celebrate her own birthday, so decided to greet and travel with us, Haarlem also being our first destination. It was a brief, and happy re-alliance of three quarters of the “two bottle night club” first established in 1981 during our extended visit to Holland at the conclusion of a 6 month trek. Sadly Joop passed on far too early from our lives, but I know he will be in our thoughts often as we peddle through the low lands in the coming weeks.
After multiple train rides between Haarlem and Amsterdam we managed to secure our bikes and maps in Amsterdam, load everything up in Haarlem and with a few funny happenings managed to get ourselves together with our addled brains by train to Hilversum just south east of Amsterdam. Along the way we encountered dysfunctional elevators in train stations supposedly used to lift bikes between train platforms that either barely fit one bike at a time or were not functioning at all. One fellow watching us engaged in cramming a single bike into a “Fiets Lift” at Amsterdam Central could only laugh with us, remarking, “typical Dutch”, and, “Only in Amsterdam!”. At one station the elevator was not operating forcing us to use the escalators. Normally an easy task, it was quite another thing man-handling two fully loaded bikes on a steep moving stair way. Annemarie, being the smaller of the team was finding herself going backwards more than forwards at one point…however we have learned in our travels to never underestimate the kindness of strangers who were there again this time to help her to arrive at the top!
Somehow and somewhat jet lagged we managed to find our way to Hilversum by mid-afternoon on a warmish May day (27C). We had been unsure if we would have enough juice in the legs to start riding at this point, but a shared Snickers bar, a couple of bottles of water and a touch of adrenaline put us right! With a deep breath, off we went.
Cycling Heaven…there is absolutely no other way to describe it...simple as that, end of story. From the moment we set off we knew that this is what we had been looking for. All the long walks and ‘training’ rides at home over the years spent kicking around the idea of cycling in Holland had suddenly crystallized into this moment! With two big smiles on our faces, we must have looked like pretty friendly cyclists, more likely a bit off in the head!
The first ride was intended to be short, only 30kms in order to get our sea legs, but it quickly extended to 40kms, albeit not by design. Riding in Holland is pretty straight forward once you get the hang of it. So a short lesson on route planning is in order. There are two types of cycle routes (fietspad) to choose from or combine to help you to reach your destination, either the National Routes (LF) or Regional Routes (RR). The LF routes are identified on the maps with solid green lines and dotted green lines are used to identify the RR’s. Where any two routes cross and form a junction (Fietsknooppunt) a number is assigned to the junction and at each junction there is either a number sign with a green circle around it or a 4-sided “mushroom stool” with direction arrows and town names/distances on each side.
Sometimes you miss these markers as the “mushrooms” are by chance just the perfect height for a local to sit on comfortably! The corresponding junction numbers are…you guessed it, also conveniently identified on your map. So once you have determined roughly where you want to go, all you have to do is take note of the ‘numbers’ then put the map into the detachable plastic cover on the top of your bar-bag and basically head off in the direction of the first numbered junction. Its basically riding by the numbers! However, a bit of jet lag seems to add a certain element to this numbers game and our first ride occasionally turned into a Sudoko puzzle!
We did eventually find our way to Odijk where Annemarie’s cousin Win has graciously offered us his place while he is house-sitting elsewhere. So here we sit for the first 3 nights with a day visit to the beautiful city of Utrecht with Win as our scholarly guide. Later that evening we were hosted by Win and Annemarie’s Tante Thea at her home in Werkhoven which is Annemarie’s mother’s family village. After dinner we enjoy a beautiful sunset, waterside walk complete with a castle and ducks the 4kms back to Odijk for a well earned sleep.
On arrival we tended to the usual organizational items that had to be accomplished prior to getting underway. We were met by Puck at Schiphol…what a special treat! By chance Puck was on her way to Haarlem to visit her sister and celebrate her own birthday, so decided to greet and travel with us, Haarlem also being our first destination. It was a brief, and happy re-alliance of three quarters of the “two bottle night club” first established in 1981 during our extended visit to Holland at the conclusion of a 6 month trek. Sadly Joop passed on far too early from our lives, but I know he will be in our thoughts often as we peddle through the low lands in the coming weeks.
After multiple train rides between Haarlem and Amsterdam we managed to secure our bikes and maps in Amsterdam, load everything up in Haarlem and with a few funny happenings managed to get ourselves together with our addled brains by train to Hilversum just south east of Amsterdam. Along the way we encountered dysfunctional elevators in train stations supposedly used to lift bikes between train platforms that either barely fit one bike at a time or were not functioning at all. One fellow watching us engaged in cramming a single bike into a “Fiets Lift” at Amsterdam Central could only laugh with us, remarking, “typical Dutch”, and, “Only in Amsterdam!”. At one station the elevator was not operating forcing us to use the escalators. Normally an easy task, it was quite another thing man-handling two fully loaded bikes on a steep moving stair way. Annemarie, being the smaller of the team was finding herself going backwards more than forwards at one point…however we have learned in our travels to never underestimate the kindness of strangers who were there again this time to help her to arrive at the top!
Somehow and somewhat jet lagged we managed to find our way to Hilversum by mid-afternoon on a warmish May day (27C). We had been unsure if we would have enough juice in the legs to start riding at this point, but a shared Snickers bar, a couple of bottles of water and a touch of adrenaline put us right! With a deep breath, off we went.
Cycling Heaven…there is absolutely no other way to describe it...simple as that, end of story. From the moment we set off we knew that this is what we had been looking for. All the long walks and ‘training’ rides at home over the years spent kicking around the idea of cycling in Holland had suddenly crystallized into this moment! With two big smiles on our faces, we must have looked like pretty friendly cyclists, more likely a bit off in the head!
The first ride was intended to be short, only 30kms in order to get our sea legs, but it quickly extended to 40kms, albeit not by design. Riding in Holland is pretty straight forward once you get the hang of it. So a short lesson on route planning is in order. There are two types of cycle routes (fietspad) to choose from or combine to help you to reach your destination, either the National Routes (LF) or Regional Routes (RR). The LF routes are identified on the maps with solid green lines and dotted green lines are used to identify the RR’s. Where any two routes cross and form a junction (Fietsknooppunt) a number is assigned to the junction and at each junction there is either a number sign with a green circle around it or a 4-sided “mushroom stool” with direction arrows and town names/distances on each side.
Sometimes you miss these markers as the “mushrooms” are by chance just the perfect height for a local to sit on comfortably! The corresponding junction numbers are…you guessed it, also conveniently identified on your map. So once you have determined roughly where you want to go, all you have to do is take note of the ‘numbers’ then put the map into the detachable plastic cover on the top of your bar-bag and basically head off in the direction of the first numbered junction. Its basically riding by the numbers! However, a bit of jet lag seems to add a certain element to this numbers game and our first ride occasionally turned into a Sudoko puzzle!
We did eventually find our way to Odijk where Annemarie’s cousin Win has graciously offered us his place while he is house-sitting elsewhere. So here we sit for the first 3 nights with a day visit to the beautiful city of Utrecht with Win as our scholarly guide. Later that evening we were hosted by Win and Annemarie’s Tante Thea at her home in Werkhoven which is Annemarie’s mother’s family village. After dinner we enjoy a beautiful sunset, waterside walk complete with a castle and ducks the 4kms back to Odijk for a well earned sleep.
Friday, May 18, 2012
Lists of Stuff!
As usual with one week to go there are many things to be finished up both domestically and at work. Lists! How would we survive without them to help keep us organized as we mature? We have a list for house chores, a list for garden projects, a packing list, a list of things to arrange for our other up-coming summer adventures, a list of things to leave behind for Bryan while we are away, a list of work based things...perhaps there should be a list to help keep our lists organized?
In any event, we are making progress. There are now two piles of 'stuff' in a spare room to take with us on our up-coming travel. The piles are a bit different this time round with cycling 'stuff' distributed in with our regular travel 'stuff'. Unfortunately this time there is sufficient 'stuff' that we will be unable to simply take a carry on, but will have to check through our slightly larger travel bags/packs. Good news is that they will only weigh about 18-20 lbs each, so not too heavy...oh plus a small shoulder bag for electronics and more 'stuff'...which probably each weigh about 100 lbs!
We have a 3 day weekend starting after work today which should help to significantly reduce the items on our lists of 'stuff' to do. Hopefully the weather will co-operate and allow us to get away from the lists long enough to go for another bike ride. We are beginning to feel fairly comfortable in our ability to peddle the daily 70+ kms that lay ahead of us in the Netherlands having recently completed a number of similar rides. Loaded panniers and the expected winds will add to the fun, but we won't be in any real hurry, unless of course its getting close to happy hour, in which case its every person for themselves! We don't plan to cycle every day, but at least 2 of every 3 days will be spent on our (hopefully) trusted Dutch steads.
Hoping to Skype with Caitlin tonight who is in Buenos Aires on her way through South America for 3 months. As a friend recently said, "oh to have young bones again!". Hopefully she will call today as its Annemarie's birthday. Anyway, time to get ready for work...another thing to tick off my list!
In any event, we are making progress. There are now two piles of 'stuff' in a spare room to take with us on our up-coming travel. The piles are a bit different this time round with cycling 'stuff' distributed in with our regular travel 'stuff'. Unfortunately this time there is sufficient 'stuff' that we will be unable to simply take a carry on, but will have to check through our slightly larger travel bags/packs. Good news is that they will only weigh about 18-20 lbs each, so not too heavy...oh plus a small shoulder bag for electronics and more 'stuff'...which probably each weigh about 100 lbs!
We have a 3 day weekend starting after work today which should help to significantly reduce the items on our lists of 'stuff' to do. Hopefully the weather will co-operate and allow us to get away from the lists long enough to go for another bike ride. We are beginning to feel fairly comfortable in our ability to peddle the daily 70+ kms that lay ahead of us in the Netherlands having recently completed a number of similar rides. Loaded panniers and the expected winds will add to the fun, but we won't be in any real hurry, unless of course its getting close to happy hour, in which case its every person for themselves! We don't plan to cycle every day, but at least 2 of every 3 days will be spent on our (hopefully) trusted Dutch steads.
Hoping to Skype with Caitlin tonight who is in Buenos Aires on her way through South America for 3 months. As a friend recently said, "oh to have young bones again!". Hopefully she will call today as its Annemarie's birthday. Anyway, time to get ready for work...another thing to tick off my list!
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Pumukkale Sunset
Kayaking at Kekova

