Rest Day Cahors: Hot & Muggy, 33

Pelerin to Tourist

Annemarie arrives. Did I surprise her? Perhaps. She knows me well after all these years and said she was worried that I would walk the whole way in yesterday. I'm saving myself. Should I walk the 1,600kms+ to Santiago, I'll need these feet!

We went out for a simple meal, then Annemarie was off to sleep to try and get the jet webs out of her brain. She tells me she is doing really well, but as I write this she is napping, something she essentially never does;-)

Today was all about visiting the two main sights...the Pont Valentre and the Cathedral Saint Etienne, in that order. Cahors was established on a major bow in the Lot River, meaning it is protected by water on three sides with a major wall built on the landward side. In the Middle Ages there was only one bridge access to the town which of course would be the Pont Valentre.

We crossed the bridge and will cross it again as we resume Le Chemin which will be a special way to leave this town. There are three towers which were used to defend the bridge, arrow slots and all.

We stopped for a time to watch a rented boat navigate the lock. I had heard my Uncle Geoff explain the procedure years ago on his and my Aunt Mary's return from England. So I understood the process, but I'm not clear that the captain of this boat did as he raced into the lock far too fast and ended up crashing into the side and almost turning sideways. 

Fortunately he had a good crew who put things to right and began the process of moving the boat downstream as el Captain sat on top looking at his map and shouting orders, though I was pretty sure that he didn't have much of a clue!

An interesting process, and in spite of the Captain, the crew did manage to get the boat through the process. I now understand the reason for the permenant bumpers! 

A short way up the road we found a small older bridge close to where a water course flowed out from the limestone wall. Neil and Sarah, this is your day!!

As we continued along our shore walk we came to another bridge where the local chapter has a house on the bridge for pelerin welcomes, refreshments and really cold water!! 

Very nice and we purchased Annemarie's credential here.

The bridge that you walk into town on the GR65.

I met a number of my fellow walkers here and in town today. Most were continuing through town and I felt a real loss as my cohort passed on as I know that I will not catch some of these folks again. I can easily catch up a one day gap, but two is more difficult. That said, I knew this would happen when I invited Annemarie to join me here, I just wasn't expecting my response." DON'T GO ON WITHOUT US!!!" It's ok, I'm better now:-)

A quick stop to check the menu where we have a dinner reservation tonight to celebrate our anniversary. 

Then on to the Cathedral. Quite an unusual Romanesque structure. I have only seen one other more unusual than this and that was in Eastern Europe in a small town.

Sort of a Byzantine look to it don't you think Erin? 

Inside was pretty good. One of the better on the trip so far, for a large church that is.

The rear dome.

Great stained glass. Old,

And new.

Then off for lunch.

Apparently my companion thinks I am looking a bit too thin after two weeks pounding across the Massif Central. After I shaved my face and had a look in the mirror it was hard to argue. So I eat...lots for the next two days:-). Funny, I was told I'd gain weight in France and loose it again in Spain? It will all even out as we have a flatter route with kinder hills until the Pyrenees. 

Hope to see Jacques tomorrow and then walk on the next day after all the forecaste thunder and rain storms pass. Better walking days in the low 20's on the horizon which makes Annemarie a happy camper!

Bon Chemin!

Stage 13: Cabrerets - Cahors, 36kms, Hot, 33

Surprise!!!

Frankly, I haven't been very happy about missing our 35th wedding anniversary since I was sorting out my route at home. I know Annemarie said it was ok, and that she would still be in transit to Cahors, but it didn't sit right with me. And I know that she likes to celebrate things on the day they happen. I thought about this over dinner last night (Ken, that's a fantastic fish soup...so good!!!)

So late last night, or was it very early this morning?

I made the decision to walk to the nearest connection point and catch a bus to Cahors. Annemarie arrives on the train from Paris at 19:00 and I'll be there to meet her...in just 3 hours! 

The day started with a spectacular breakfast at the little hotel I stayed in last night. There were eggs to boil yourself, all sorts of breads and raison/cinnamon buns, juices, yogurts and leafed tea! I walked out of the hotel with a cinnie bun in my hand.

Walked past the usual daily church,

and commenced the now usual steep climb out of which ever ville I happen to be in for the night. 

I think I'm becoming half mountain goat...my calves and thighs will never be the same again! There wasn't much to see as I passed over the hump, but when I descended to the road the scenery actually picked up nicely as I walked along the Lot River on the road.

It was a Sunday morning and there was actually quite a bit of traffic zipping along. Now folks have been very friendly along the way when they see that I'm walking le Chemin, but today they were honking, waving and giving me thumbs up signals as they sped by. It was pretty inspiring! It's that sort of response that gives one a boost. 

I arrived at Bouzies and found the bus stop outside town at the end of the bridge into town. Now this bridge is pretty cool. It's a one lane suspension bridge that bounced as I walked across it. Imagine being in a car!

Bouzies. A bit of a tourist centre I think judging from the boats tied up along the river. I think you can barge hire along here. I'll have to investigate this when I return home.

I had to wait my turn on the way back as a vintage car group crossed against me.

Always something happening isn't there? That's a caravan mid-span.

Waiting for my bus...

And I did feel weird leaving le Chemin on a bus, even for a short ride.

The only other time I did this was on the Plata, but that was for a medical reason. However, I've travelled solo about 335 kms without a break over 13 stages and so I guess it's ok. Certainly the reason I chose to do so is important to me. Of course, you just watch. When Annemarie comes in tonight on the train she will see me and say that she's not surprised to see me at all! It's so hard to surprise that woman!!! Grrrrrr:-)

I washed my clothes...it took four sessions in the sink to get rid of the sweat, grim and whatever! Just filthy, and I've washed out my walking stuff most every night. 

I've also shaved for the first time in days and had the first nap since I started walking...what was that about? Guess my body and mind realized that this is a rest stop. We will spend tomorrow walking around this nice town and just hanging out. Jacques will arrive on Tuesday in time for lunch before he heads towards Quebec. Looking forward to seeing him. He's been a good buddy on the way.

I will post this late. If there is any chance to surprise Annemarie I have to wait! More tomorrow. By the way, the shave is my anniversary gift to Annemarie. I know, nothing special, but she won't want to carry anything extra. There would be flowers too, but it's Sunday, and this is France. All shut down. I guess a nice dinner in a French restaurant with a clean shaved, and showered husband isn't too bad. It will have to do! Peter and Dave, there is a red Michelin restaurant sign on the door of our hotel. Wonder what's on the menu tonight?

Bon Chemin from a resting pelerin:-) Two days off! Fabulous!

Stage 10: Livinhac - Figeac, 28 kms, Sunny & Hot! 32

 "Monsieur, vous marchez magnifiquement!"

The sunrise.

Having learned about upscale Camino camping on the Frances with Annemarie, it turns out that it's even better on the GR65! We finished up our beers and purchased some interesting stuff in tins, and went back to our place and cooked up a seemingly healthy meal, complete with a bottle of wine. Not half bad! Good internet and I was able to connect with various family members, so all good. I was even able to get a couple of fresh eggs from our hostess who has her own chickens, and I hard boiled them last night for breakfast today. 

We were up and away early as it promised to be a very hot journey. Look at our generation selfie!

The light this morning was great and I took full advantage.

We stopped in town for some additional food for the road and as we headed off Jacques found his way into a conversation with a lady from France. Knowing enough about threes' company, I headed off on my own, which was the intent anyway as Jacques is still a bit hobbled. 

 The first hour was the usual uphill slog, but as I recovered and after wiping the sweat from my eyes I realized that things were changing. The landscape was different...rounder?

The further I walked, the clearer this became. The landscape became almost flat compared to the last 9 stages.

It seems that we are coming off the Massif Central. Does this mean that life will be a bit easier for a while and that there will be time to let the mind wander? I guess time will tell. There was certainly some hills today, but nothing like we have previously encountered. The big challenge today was the heat. Everyone was feeling it...even this fella.

All types of signage on this route.

 I passed by the Chapelle de Guirande, but for some reason it wouldn't open until 10:00. Having no reason to wait, I took a photo of the church and the inside through a screened window.

Continuing on, the heat became more oppressive until I reached a water font and took out my trusty bandana and soaked it and myself in the cold water. Spectacular!! A man and his son walked over to me and in French proceeded to ask me the usual questions...where I'm from, where I'm walking to, what's my name, am I going to Santiago, where did I start today. I did my best to give complete answers and he actually understood me quite well. Then he said, "Monsieur, vous marchez magnifiquement!" and as I was standing there a bit taken aback, he said the same thing to me in very clear English, "Sir, you walk magnificently!" Another day on the Camino.

I stopped to eat some of my sandwich at some point and I soon had the company of birds and a dog wondering if I might share.

Then I did some real estate work, and Annemarie I have two options for us! 

Ou,

The second has a better location, but the first is nicer and a bit pretentious;-) I'm good with either, and we can step out our door and voila...we are on Camino!

A few scenes from the day.

I was flagging at one point, so finally I pulled out my music and some good ol' rock & roll! Sometimes you have to do what you have to do to make it in to your next bed. 

Tomorrow we head out and take the Cele Valley deviation off the GR65. This is supposed to take us into some beautiful gorges and will take four days to transit. Odds are good that I'll have wifi,but one never knows. So postings may be delayed a day or so, but I'll write each day.

A great dinner out!

And a few more...

From the light through the church windows as it plays on the floor. I've never seen this as clear as today in any church in Europe!