Storks!

Merhaba. At this time of year Selcuk is a temporary home to an amazing community of storks. The most interesting thing is that unlike northern Europe, they make their rather large nests on top of the ancient aquaduct that passes through town. Many of the remains of the aquaduct are simply the columns with the arches having collapsed years in the past. This makes for a safe environment for the 'chicks' that are already pretty big. The storks are a very large bird looking much like a cross between an oversized pelican and a blue herron...they make quite the noise!

I toured Ephesus on my own this morning...very early while mass tourism slept and ate their breakfast. Had it all to myself...I was a very happy camper:) Last time I was here this amazing site was a bit crowded so this morning was a pleasure!

Off to shop now as the heat of the day has about topped out and if I keep to the shady side of the street I might just survive. Its Sunday and most families are visiting and much of the male population are sitting in the cafes playing backgammon and drinking cay. Truly into travel mode now and in some ways its a shame to go home, but Annemarie is waiting and she has been more than generous with this trip...although it should be said that she did insist that I go! Besides when I fly out July 3rd in the morning I will be home in Victoria about 24 hours later on the same day just in time to wish Mom a happy 80th birthday which is pretty amazing!

So its on to Istanbul tomorrow and a wander through this amazing city at the cross-roads of civilization. A city of mosques, palaces, bazaars, hamans, amazing foods and unusual smells. Fish in a bun with onions off a fish boat on the Bosphorus and cay in the markets as you get pleasently assaulted by the kilm sellers. 15 million people packed into one amazing city...nice to visit and experience...great to leave afterwards!

Hoşçakal!

Cruising the Turkish Coast in a Gullet

It's the end of a very long day which started early this morning when I woke up wrapped in my sheet after a night sleeping under the stars on the fore deck of our gullet. We are now sitting in our pension in Selcuk about 10 hours, and 2 long bus rides, after weighing anchour this morning. Thus ends 3+ days of wandering the islands along the coast pulling into little bays and swimming in the Med whenever the urge struck! Sleeping on deck was so nice under the stars, and strangely most others slept in their cabins which were very hot and stuffy...go figure. The weather has been in the very high 30's which is just perfect and the water was well into the 20's, so there is enough differential to still feel refreshed when you jump in with the fish to cool off. Quickly adopted the habit of pulling on a swim mask and pipe then going for a long swim to get some exercise several times a day to compensate for the great food the crew regularly presented us with. I had definitely lost a few pounds before we climbed aboard, but not so sure after the last few days! We were fortunate to have a nice, but small group on the boat from all directions of the compass. It provided Erin and I with a nice break from each other as there were some folks her age to visit with and there were also a few closer to my age, but I was clearly the old fella on the boat. People were impressed that the two of us could travel together...for the 2nd time...I am too!
Erin is presently calling her boy friend who is out tree planting...day off...and I have a few quiet moments to surf the net and pick up messages. Tomorrow morning I plan to head out to see Ephesus again and we will then focus a bit of time on shopping which is the main reason we came here. A quick day and a half here and then the train to Izmir and a flight to Istanbul where we will spend most of the week before going our separate ways Friday morning. Time sure does move along on a trip like this.

Just had an email from Annemarie and all is changed at home with Bryan moving out to Tofino for the next 4 months this weekend and Annemarie and Kathy off on their own adventure on the west coast. Caitlin must be at home with the dog and delighted I'm sure to have the house to herself. Gather weather at home not too hot so I guess I'll need a sweater when I arrive!

Time to head out to find some dinner and a cold beer...the harsh reality of having to leave the mother ship!

Its HOT in these parts!

Merhaba!! Today is a traveling administration day. You know the sort of things that need to be done before departing for 3 days, 4 nights on a sail boat...banking, emails, bus schedule to the next place. Its around noon and all is done, now we just kind of 'chill' as per Erin's lingo and wait. I think I can handle this as I have a good book, a source of cold Beck's beer...at the yachty hangout...and there is air conditioning in our little hotel should a nap be required!
Yesterday was an amazing day spent in over 40C weather. Left Pamukkale early after breakfast and drove for a couple of hours to Aphrodesius where we had the site all to ourselves. The site is excellent with some amazing ruins. It has the usual 200 BC - 200 AD Roman type stuff...an agora or two, baths, homes, a few temples and that sort of thing. What was unusual was the amazingly well preserved stadium which would have been most suitable for Julius C, had he ever visited. Of the 6 or 7 stadiums that I have had the fortune to view, this one holds a candle to none. There is also a well engraved and very stylish double arch gate of fine grained white marble leading to the primary temple which is 85% original and exceedingly well etched...meaning it was buried and not weathered. Also a delight was the senate type assembly which is also made of white marble and the museum which is still under construction. In the museum are all the friezes which were also buried and are in excellent condition and well displayed. Of course we had to miss something! Erin claiming heat issues decided she was ready to leave and later read to me that we had missed the amphi-theater made of white marble! Oh well...something to return to see one day...but of course I'll often remind her of this in the future! There are of course numerous ruins and ancient sites in Greece and Turkey, and I would have to say that this site ranks highly. Of the sites I have visited in Turkey only Ephesus is better. As they continue to unearth significant findings and reconstruct where necessary I would not be surprised to see this sight continue to improve with 'age'.

A very hot drive to the coast in the plus 40C range and we were both fried by the time we arrived at our destination and dropped off the car. We covered 1,350 kms in the 6 days of car travel and enjoyed the freedom and non-touristed sites and experiences that only come with this type of mobility.

We head off on a sail cruise tomorrow for 3-4 days and I will not be updating until arrival in Selcuk or Istanbul. Will be looking forward to cold beers and many plunges into the Med over the next few days!

Concerning Driving in Turkey

We have been driving in Turkey for about 5 days now and will drive for a couple more days before dumping the coach in favour of a sail boat for 4 days...I know...its tough! We could have happily stayed at our water front pension in Kas for another night. After all the view from our balcony was special, the kayaking day trip exciting, the beer exceedingly cold and the town wonderfully laid back. So why move on you ask? Well, it was just too nice and not at all like travelling. After breakfast this morning we looked at each other and decided to drive up to Pamukkale...4 to 5 hours later, some fun along the way and here we sit in a very nice little pension that costs $45 CDN with breakfast! Not bad for 2 people. Turkey is not as cheap as it was on my 2 previous visits, but by N American and European standards...its still cheap. We seem to be here between the spring traveller bump and the summer tourist stampede...at least that's what they tell us. Able to drive up to almost any pension and get a room with a negotiated reduction in price. This will change in about 10 days, but by then we will be in Istanbul and close to the end of our time together...but I digress.

So you want to driving in Turkey? Well best be prepared for some very unusual sights and experiences. Definitely not as crazy as third world driving, but interesting none the less. For example as we drove through Denzile, today being Sunday and a big wedding day here, we were almost run down by a wedding party and supporting racers! Have you ever seen the chuck wagon races at the Calgary Stampede? They don't just drive through town with cars all covered in flowers honking their horns, they drive through at high speed hanging out the windows...kids included...and race to see who will be first to the next light! All very colorful craziness!

Then there are the cars driving down your side of the highway at high speed in the parking lane...did I mention that they are going in the opposite direction? They aren't so bad once you get used to them, its the ones doing this in reverse that I'm still having fun getting use to...usually means the driver missed their exit! Of course standard procedure is to pass on the sharpest corner at speed...doesn't really matter if its on your left or your right side! Lining up for a light...the game is to see how many cars and motor bikes can fit in across the stop line, and if you even hestitate for a second when the light goes amber and then green, the horns begin with a great loud noise! Of course in many places red lights are only a suggestion...tail gating is the norm and its all for fun...everyone for themselves! And it is fun...such a good time driving here after slow Victoria. Basic drivers education should include a week of driving instruction from a Turk...we would all be better for it...and the Canadian Young Drivers course would all make just a little more sense!
Well off to the museum and the terraces with a sunset then back to our pension for a night dinner and a cold beer. After all it is Father's Day. Happy Father's Day Dad!

Departing Cappadocia

After about four days its time to leave this most interesting of places. We have enjoyed two amazing 2 days of trekking, probably the best that I have enjoyed in a long time. Erin is really into it and we have had a few close calls and considerable fun. This type of trekking is not about following the signs, other people or a good map...nope, this is all about finding your way without a map, without a pre-defined route and over some very challenging terrain! Thanks in part to Scouting Canada - when I was a kid-, our directional sense and a bit of my educational knowledge we managed to return to our hotel each night, a bit weary, but totally pumped! Amazing text book volcanics and erosion patterns...maybe I should have remained a Geographer as I never tire of this sort of experience.

Monday we trekked through two separate valleys with the last one Pigeon Valley...an outstanding place full of...while...pigeons! What else?They have been here for centuries with special places cut into the rock faces where they roost and the guano is then harvested for fertilizer...many of these sites half way down 2-300 foot cliffs! Its very difficult to enter these valleys as the sides are pretty shear, but after many questions and pointed directions we did finally get in. However, half way down the valley we eventually found ourselves at the end of a shear drop and being the chickens we are, were about turn around when an old leathery fella 'rescued' us and led us along a frightening route over, around and down to the otherside of the cliff face. As suspected he was a professional guide and we later learned that the guides remove any signage so that they can 'encourage' folks to hire them typically for about 70 dollars. As he only provided help for a small part of the trek...the nasty part...I paid him 25 dollars...and felt I had the better of the deal as I was prepared to go to 26! Actually we were pleased to see him and hang the cost!

Yesterday we completed a 7 hour trek through much different terrain full of fairy chimneys and stratigraphy that was yellow, purple, pink, white and brown. Up one valley, somehow over the top of the next divide and then down the next valley, only to repeat this process again and again until we found a road to walk out on. Very spectaclar area with ancient churches and villages high on the cliff walls. Numerous cut tunnels from ancient times that we needed lights to navigate and then you would find the 'trail' again and continue. The weather has been unusually cool 25-30C most days, but yesterday was ideal for hiking as cloudy and only about 17 C as a cold front from across the Black Sea passed. This has resulted in the alpine flowers remaining in full bloom longer than usual and I have more than a few photos to document their beauty. We stopped for lunch high on a valley headland prior to our crossing over and the views were very exotic!

This morning I was up at 6am to watch the numerous balloons full of very wealthy clients float past on their way to see the valleys. A lovely site in the blue, and again warm summer sky. From our experience the past few days this would be how most visitors see the sites as we met only a handful of trekkers. I suspect their view was special, but at 300 dollars for 1 hour...pass.

10pm night bus for Antalya on the Med tonight. We are killing time while we wait. There is a car with our name and a/c on it and we will then travel high into the mountains tomorrow to see Thermossis and then back down to the coast to find a perch for the night. The trip gets darn hot from here on in. More later...

Cappadocia - Magical!

Having a wonderful time here in Cappadocia. Most of the jet lag is gone and we are having chance encounters with many wonderful folks from all over the world, probably my favorite part of our travels. Cappadocia is spectacular! I will not bore you with the geological details except to say that the tuffa fairy chimneys and landscapes are amazing. Its hard to believe that finally I am here after studying the area in university all those years ago.
We rented a car yesterday and drove about 300 kms through the volcanic area high up into the mountains and got nicely lost in areas where Im pretty sure they rarely see many outsiders...the looks we got! It was Sunday so the women were colorfully dressed with scarved heads and the men in their usual conservative black and whites. The older generation tend to follow the time proven and green travel method, aka donkey travel! Whole families gather to ride the ancient family tractor to town, and you can see quite a parade moving along the road ways.

We have seen some amazing churches carved right into the walls of the Ilahara Valley where we trekked and climbed to our hearts content. Some of you Star Wars fans would recognize the area from the first movie/ We climbed 4 living levels below the surface through troglodite dwellings for over an hour...no tourists! Photography is excellent and supports carrying my large digital everywhere.

Have truly enjoyed the kids here...Caitlin would love them all...no doubt! Clearly soccer/football is the universal language as they almost all love to talk about the recent Fenerbache news...the number one club team in Istanbul and Turkey. We have had groups of kids follow us around all trying their english on us...no matter where I travel there is always this great connection to the children...and their passion for soccer.

Goreme is located at a base elevation of 1300 meters and there is still plenty of snow up high, with amazing volcanics in the area. Today we trekked for the morning and have just had lunch and will trek to an ancient town further up in the hills this afternoon...each wander/scramble takes 2-3 hours or more and it can be pretty hot, but we each carry 1.5 L of water. The food has been great and I have avoided the beer until all systems are normal, but we reckon tonight is the night!

We think we will take the 9 hour night bus to Antalya Wednesday night then pick up the car at 10am...bus in at 6am...then drive high into the Taurus Mountains to see the ancient ruins at Thermossos...then catch a nap in the shade before driving on to the coast for the start of our run west up the coast line. In the meantime its time to go for another wander then out for a late dinner under the stars...with that Efe beer!

Bryan Graduates...then off I Go!

Walked out of the office today into the warm sunshine and immediately was on vacation...just that easy! No structured work for 26 days!

Bryan graduates high school today and is just that close to taking off at the end of the month for a 4 month work experience in Tofino. He will be working for his Uncle Don preparing the whale watching zodiacs and kayaks and probably just about anything else that comes his way. He's ready for this experience and can't wait to get out on his own...we all remember the unfettered freedom. Responsibilities are minimal and you can call your own shots. I expect that when he's not playing his guitar most of his free time will be spent kayaking and wandering the west coast beaches...then there's the parties! We will particularly miss him this summer, but will have visits with him at Mom & Dad's 60th wedding anniversary at Sun Peaks in late July and we will likely wander up to Tofino sometime in the fall after the tourist hords have thinned.

Tomorrow morning I fly out to Istanbul (that sounds so cool) to meet up with Erin who has been waiting there since Monday. Turkey is 10 hours ahead so will arrive 5:30pm local time Friday, and we will fly onwards to the small town of Nevehir the next morning. Don't really want to start the trip in a city of 16M souls so thought we would go east (get past the jet lag) and work our way slowly back to Istanbul where Erin will fly onwards to Roma and sadly I will return home and back to work...until the next time!!

There are a few things to finish up before I'm ready to go and I want to spend some time with Bryan as well. I'll try to add comments as we travel...so stay tuned!