I finished reading Paul Theroux's recent book last night called "Ghost Train To The Eastern Star", published in 2008. Essentially Theroux re-traces the train travel he completed in the 1970's, a large circle route from London, through Europe to Istanbul, across Persia via Iraq, Iran, Afghanistan, down through Pakistan & India, across Asia, up through Vietnam (during the war no less), across to Japan and back to London on the Trans Siberian. The trip took him months and is chronicled in his 1975 book, "The Great Railway Bazaar" (a personal favorite). In his most recent travel he attempts to recreate this trip some 30+ years later to look for changes and sameness, both in the countries he transits and in himself (born in 1941 so he would have been about age 66 when he did the trip). Of course, due to a few recent difficulties during the time of his travel he was unable to train through Persia on the same route, and instead heads northeast from Turkey, through Georgia, Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan and down through Tajikistan before flying over Pakistan to India.
In this most recent train travel, at age 66, he has a life time of experiences to look back on, and he reflects very openly and frankly about his personal experiences and situation during the first trip (there was little indication in book one). He contrasts these reflections very well to his experiences during the second trip and shows humor and humility, something often missing from some of his earlie travel writing. He pulls few punches about governments, past and present...however, I won't spoil the fun for others who may wish to read his book.
I found his summation thought provoking...I'm still thinking about it;
"Most people on earth are poor. Most places are blighted and nothing will stop the blight getting worse. Travel gives you glimpses of the past and the future, your own and other people's...only the old can really see how gracelessly the world is aging and all that we have lost. Politicians are always inferior to their citizens. No one on earth is well governed. Is there hope? Yes. Most people I'd met, in chance encounters, were strangers who helped me on my way. And we lucky ghosts can travel wherever we want. The going is still good, because the arrivals are departures.".
I think most folks who travel independently have experienced the kindness of strangers. Its these and other chance encounters that I have come to cherish most when traveling.
Those of you ghosts out there on the road...enjoy!
Friday, July 16, 2010
Saturday, July 3, 2010
Tour de France!
It's that time of year again...time for Le Tour! Short prologue start to the race this year in Rotterdam and nice to see the 3,600 km race get started again. The usual suspects are all in place and Lance claims this will be his last year...but he finished 4th on the first stage so it promises to be something special this year. Will be fun to watch to see if the young legs of Contador & Schlek will be able to beat the experience of the 'old' guy...they didn't help them today. The CDN Hejedas from Victoria is a surprise force this year in 4th place no less!
And then there is the World Cup of Football in S. Africa as it works its way into the semi finals this week with the Dutch, Germans, Spaniards and Uruguay teams still in it. I have to pull for the Dutch, but my money is on the Germans who again dominated today, beating Argentina 4-0.
Finally the landscaping is completed with just some plants to locate and place which can happen any time over the next year or two...no urgency as the infrastructure is complete. Took 2 months part time to finish this up-grade and its always nice to see the end of an effort. Garden is pretty much planted and now its time to enjoy the summer which appears to be arriving this week (finally). I have a stack of good books to get through this summer and we are going to take the first of 7 long weekends next week and head off camping at China Beach for 3 days. No bikes this trip as we are borrowing a Westphalia to see what camping is like with some wheels under us. The thought being that if we like it we will look to travel elsewher in the world using an update of this mode of travel. We have considered purchasing such an animal and then leaving it in Europe for extended post work travel. Its one method of cutting cost on long trips and we could use it to travel a very long way...will see how things go.
Started up the bike riding season and the first ride was about 80+k, not bad after a long winter. Added a monthly walking target this year to supplement the other fitness program cause sitting in a desk can't be the road to health!
Just two and a half months to Spain & Morocco...close enough to taste! Lots of fun to be had before then, but nice to look forward to. Really hoping that we can pull off a barge trip in France with Kathy & Bob and Joe & Marian next June/July. We would spend a week together then head off in separate directions. Perhaps we could catch a stage or two of Le Tour!
And then there is the World Cup of Football in S. Africa as it works its way into the semi finals this week with the Dutch, Germans, Spaniards and Uruguay teams still in it. I have to pull for the Dutch, but my money is on the Germans who again dominated today, beating Argentina 4-0.
Finally the landscaping is completed with just some plants to locate and place which can happen any time over the next year or two...no urgency as the infrastructure is complete. Took 2 months part time to finish this up-grade and its always nice to see the end of an effort. Garden is pretty much planted and now its time to enjoy the summer which appears to be arriving this week (finally). I have a stack of good books to get through this summer and we are going to take the first of 7 long weekends next week and head off camping at China Beach for 3 days. No bikes this trip as we are borrowing a Westphalia to see what camping is like with some wheels under us. The thought being that if we like it we will look to travel elsewher in the world using an update of this mode of travel. We have considered purchasing such an animal and then leaving it in Europe for extended post work travel. Its one method of cutting cost on long trips and we could use it to travel a very long way...will see how things go.
Started up the bike riding season and the first ride was about 80+k, not bad after a long winter. Added a monthly walking target this year to supplement the other fitness program cause sitting in a desk can't be the road to health!
Just two and a half months to Spain & Morocco...close enough to taste! Lots of fun to be had before then, but nice to look forward to. Really hoping that we can pull off a barge trip in France with Kathy & Bob and Joe & Marian next June/July. We would spend a week together then head off in separate directions. Perhaps we could catch a stage or two of Le Tour!
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Pumukkale Sunset
Kayaking at Kekova