Napier, NZ: Mixed Sun & Cloud, 22C

Of Beers and Bears!

We are on the southwest corner of the North Island in the art deco town of Napier. Everything here looks like it came out of the 1930s...which it did. My parents might be quite comfortable here? 

As I write, we are sitting having lunch in Heaven's Bakery which won the NZ Bakery of the Year Award! The food is pretty good, a ham, spinach and feta quiche and a cup of tea. Finally I'm traveling in a country where I can find a great cup of tea!! My last travels have sadly been lacking in this department. 

We drove across through the mountains this morning and at the high part of the pass it was 10C, and I actually put on the heat in the car because I was just in shorts and a t-shirt. Where we crossed to the west coast today...very scenic.

Once here, I went and found a very light wind breaker as my rain jacket is too heavy and this new item will serve nicely for the winds here on cooler days, camping, walking and biking too. It's a bit lighter than my trekking wind breaker, so should do nicely with layers. The sun has just popped out so I likely won't need it again today, but it folds down into a small bag so very good to keep in my day bag.

Yesterday we retraced the walk that Annemarie blogged about a couple of days ago...this time with a camera. Very nice and here are a few photos. 

Other direction towards where we climbed the prior day...really have to pick the day or its not safe to proceed because of high winds which was the case the next day.

This river is a well known trout spot and fly fishing the game. We met a local named Tom who was very friendly and had travelled to Canada to see family as his Grandfather emigrated from Canada to NZ and he has relatives in Lethbridge and Fernie. That open the doors for a great chat about travel in both countries. He made a comment that we have a lot of beers in Canada. I was about to say to him that there are some very good beers here too, when it became clear that he was referring to our 'Bears'! Too funny...a heavy accent can make even english difficult for us from time to time. A very friendly fully geared fisherman who is looking to connect with us on the South Island when he and his wife take off for three weeks caravanning.

We then back tracked to Taupo where Annemarie had been interested in spending a night. The town was pretty much booked out, but we found a nice place...at twice our budget. It was Valentines Day and 39 years to the day since Annemarie asked me out on our first date...a dance at UVic! 39 years later, three nice kids, two careers in the rear view mirror and....hey, what happened?! Looking back up to the high winds buffeting the Crossing from the prior day and the sunset just before a late dinner.

NZ lamb chops and a Merlot...very nice!! 

Quite funny yesterday, as we walked to a river where you can sit in the shallows as hot springs flow in.

We looked around at all the younger types and asked ourselves, "how did this happen?...this used to be us!" Such is the passage of time. We calmed ourselves by appreciating that we are still here and kicking! The water was a neat experience with the hot water floating on the surface...so when you stand up, your feet and lower legs are cool and your knees are hot. Very odd sensation! Of course every German traveling in NZ was there...they seem to have a sixth sense for hot springs. 

Later: Having now taken a wander around Napier, we have a better sense of its history and the reason for the art nouveau building style. On Feb 3, 1931 at 10:45AM a 7.8 intensity earthquake struck 15 kms from town. The result as you can imagine was complete devastation given the town is built on unconsolidated sediments just a few meters above high water. At that time understandings were very limited. The town was destroyed and fires claimed the rest with many fatalities, in the hundreds. The town was rebuilt from donations in 1932 and 1933, and has 'aged' to the point where the core is now considered something of a museum piece. As you can see from the photos, it's been well maintained and represents the period very well. 

A few photos from the upper part of town on the bluff. Nice setting!

Tomorrow we will stay 30 minutes north of Wellington so that we can have the day wandering what is supposed to be an excellent walking city. Yes David, there will be a few Steinie bears, I mean beers tonight!! Pizza too! A cheap night in a nice funky hotel which is decorated like the last century. This town puts NZ even further back in time! Nice place. More later...