Drinking With the Enemy

We are sitting in-land this evening in the small historic town of Tomar after departing the beautiful coastal town of Nazare.

We found a brand new highway (not even on our Michelin map) built courtesy of many Euros from the European Community, allowing us to zip across the country side in less than an hour...a trip that we thought would take far longer on the winding narrow country roads. Arrived here with more time to spare than expected, and quickly located a suitable pension. Needing some exercise (we are really missing climbing on to our bikes each morning) we decided to hike up to the KnightsTemplar fortress of Convento de Cristo for an hour of kicking about. To our surprise, and 3+ hours later, we came away knowing that we had just seen an amazing site (developed between the 12th and 17th centuries).

The art works in the central 16 sided Charola were brilliant and are in the process of extensive restoration. The completed works again exhibit a 'color' seen once again in the Vatican’s Sistine Chapel since restoration work was completed there. While the works are generally darker, the colors are brilliant. Considerable work is being expended on this very large, significant site, no doubt in an effort to attract increased visitation to this UNESCO location. I think it will eventually gain the attention it deserves, but today we were two of a hand full of visitors, although we did see a couple of tour buses in the parking lot as we departed and it was a quiet Monday.

 

 

Prices at the various historic locations have been a modest 6 euros, but we are told that this reflects a significant increase from prior years, and I have read to expect even higher fees at the sites in Lisbon. Portugal is of course experiencing its largest economic challenge since the '30's and is looking to raise funds from every possible source. VAT has sky-rocketed to 22%...it was 16% only a few years ago. Costs here for the traveler are significantly low compared to other European countries so it’s difficult to complain about the fees and taxes. Some of the historic venues are so good that they could easily charge more and visitors would pay with little complaint. Pensions, food and other travel basics are essentially on par with central Turkey…low.

We have been here only a few days, but already we are seeing the impacts of the economic challenges...many properties for sale, empty business premises, unfinished or unsold housing developments, deferred maintenance in parks and at historic sites, etc, etc. Many are obviously in distress, but seemingly all is not negative we watched many Portuguese folks enjoying themselves in Nazare...there are always those who are in good financial shape. Strangely we have seen very few ‘street’ people, but expect Lisbon will be the acid test.

Indirectly and slowly I finally reach the subject of this entry. Last night we went to the main plaza where all the bars extend their seating into the plaza while it is warm enough in the evenings. Of course we went to watch the Netherlands play Portugal in the decisive game of the preliminary E2012 round...a win for Holland and they were through to the quarters...the same for Portugal. We were still cheering (very, very quietly) for Holland, but to see the passion of the people as they lived and died with each play and each attempt at goal and then ultimate victory was a moment to be remembered. There is no denying that I witnessed much of the same passion in Holland, but at the conclusion of the game I could only applaud with the locals as their team came from behind to win the game on the back of their national hero, Ronaldo. He was outstanding and obviously idolized by the folks watching. No doubt their world is troubled and futures are completely uncertain, but for a time the entire country was able to focus on one large distraction...the success of their national football team. The joy that followed the win was very tangible and completely unforgettable.

Yesterday as we drove south to visit the town of Obidos I saw a slogan sprayed in large black letters on a concrete wall that made me think of a similar slogan I'd seen in Northern Ireland in the 1970's. It took me a moment to realize what the Portuguese words said...then suddenly I realized the words were the same, "Ireland is not dead"..."Portugal is not dead".