You come to El Chatlen for only one reason. The restaurants are ok, the hostels generally nice, but very expensive, the ATM’s don’t work (everyone complains about this) and the wind howls through here like a Category 1 hurricane. When it’s not sunny you feel like you’re on the edge of the earth. You only come here for one thing. To trek. Nothing else exists. Nothing else matters. So we trekked: )
After an amazing pasta meal washed down with a nice red in a small tea house of all places (who accepted our credit card with a 10% fee...we have no cash because the ATM’s don’t work), we walked back to our hostel to try and wind down from the day. Still awake well after midnight and listening to the rain pounding on our roof I took a bit of time to reflect on what an amazing trip this has been. One of our best. I finally decided that that was enough of that. I told myself to try and sleep because tomorrow might just be a decent day, and if everything was in working order we might just get a trek in. Eventually I slept and awoke to the sound of rain still pounding on the roof. Lying there I thought that we would end up having a catch up day to do our laundry and wander the shops, etc. We went down to a very nice breakfast and while there the rain stopped. Our host suggested a couple of possible treks given the weather challenges. I had the impression that neither of us was really in the mood, but I suggested that we forego showers, dress in our trekking stuff and go out to wander the shops. If there was any chance to trek then we’d be ready and not have to return to our hostel and go through the process. By the time we were geared up there was the hint of a change in the air. We never did shop, except to pick up water, fruit and a thick slab of chocolate with nuts. We went right from the mercado to the trail head. It was indeed clearing! Our adrenaline was up and our weariness forgotten. After all there’s only one reason to come to El Chatlen: )
We begin to climb as we head for Laguan Capri on The Mount Fitz Roy circuit. The view from the first Mirador. The clouds are lifting!
I tell Annemarie that this is going to be brilliant! And it was.
We carry on, gaining more elevation as we went.
The trees are all gnarly from the cold and the wind. They are exquisitely deformed. The trees are always so interesting.
We arrive at the mirador and the sun is out, storm force winds blow and it’s just perfect.
The trees, stunted and gnarled.
We continued onwards to Laguna Capri. The winds here were so fierce that at one point taking a photo I was nearly knocked off my feet!
Time to make tracks. The weather was shifting with the clouds now beginning to cover the mountains and a very cold wind coming off the glaciers in behind Fitz Roy.
Our perfect window was beginning to close. We pulled on warmer clothes and headed for the barn.
We were looking ahead at good weather, but we could already feel the rain on our backs.
We passed quite a few folks coming up as we descended. Those who’d perhaps slept in, had a nice lunch and then had seen the sunny skies in town and decided to head off. We felt good about going with fingers crossed mid morning. Today it paid off.
We arrived in town, dumped our gear and headed off with all our debit cards in search of cash. No luck. So we found a bar with a VISA sign on the door and had hot chocolates and shared a slice of cake. Now showered and clothes hung to dry it’s dinner time. We will look for something typically Argentinian tonight! The winds continue to howl and Annemarie tells me they are scheduled to blow all night. We will hunker down in our nice hostel and wait it out. Tomorrow we catch the bus for El Calafate where we will stay two nights and hope the weather holds. We have something special to experience there. Dinner time!
Did I mention that it’s Spring time here? It is, lol.
After an amazing pasta meal washed down with a nice red in a small tea house of all places (who accepted our credit card with a 10% fee...we have no cash because the ATM’s don’t work), we walked back to our hostel to try and wind down from the day. Still awake well after midnight and listening to the rain pounding on our roof I took a bit of time to reflect on what an amazing trip this has been. One of our best. I finally decided that that was enough of that. I told myself to try and sleep because tomorrow might just be a decent day, and if everything was in working order we might just get a trek in. Eventually I slept and awoke to the sound of rain still pounding on the roof. Lying there I thought that we would end up having a catch up day to do our laundry and wander the shops, etc. We went down to a very nice breakfast and while there the rain stopped. Our host suggested a couple of possible treks given the weather challenges. I had the impression that neither of us was really in the mood, but I suggested that we forego showers, dress in our trekking stuff and go out to wander the shops. If there was any chance to trek then we’d be ready and not have to return to our hostel and go through the process. By the time we were geared up there was the hint of a change in the air. We never did shop, except to pick up water, fruit and a thick slab of chocolate with nuts. We went right from the mercado to the trail head. It was indeed clearing! Our adrenaline was up and our weariness forgotten. After all there’s only one reason to come to El Chatlen: )
This is the weather indicator at the foot of the climb. By the way we are in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. There are presently glaciers here, for as long as they last. Huge ice fields up behind Mount Fitz Roy, the premier peak in these parts.
We begin to climb as we head for Laguan Capri on The Mount Fitz Roy circuit. The view from the first Mirador. The clouds are lifting!
I tell Annemarie that this is going to be brilliant! And it was.
We pass underneath a massive cliff where the Condors are circling picking up the up-drafts. Four Condors! We sfop and simply watch in amazement. They are so huge. Ugly on the ground they are magnificent in the air.
Condors on your ledge
Watching the trekkers below
What more do you see
We carry on, gaining more elevation as we went.
The trees are all gnarly from the cold and the wind. They are exquisitely deformed. The trees are always so interesting.
We arrive at the mirador and the sun is out, storm force winds blow and it’s just perfect.
The perfect window
My eyes open in wonder
Soul of the mountains
In Torres del Paine I was amazed and a bit overwhelmed by the experience. Today, inspired.
We had caught the perfect window at about 13:00. By 14:00 it was gone, closed in, raining and blowing very hard. But for that moment it was special. We sat and ate our food all the while watched the face of Fitz Roy show us dramatic glimpses of itself.
In Torres del Paine I was amazed and a bit overwhelmed by the experience. Today, inspired.
We had caught the perfect window at about 13:00. By 14:00 it was gone, closed in, raining and blowing very hard. But for that moment it was special. We sat and ate our food all the while watched the face of Fitz Roy show us dramatic glimpses of itself.
The trees, stunted and gnarled.
We continued onwards to Laguna Capri. The winds here were so fierce that at one point taking a photo I was nearly knocked off my feet!
Time to make tracks. The weather was shifting with the clouds now beginning to cover the mountains and a very cold wind coming off the glaciers in behind Fitz Roy.
Our perfect window was beginning to close. We pulled on warmer clothes and headed for the barn.
We were looking ahead at good weather, but we could already feel the rain on our backs.
We passed quite a few folks coming up as we descended. Those who’d perhaps slept in, had a nice lunch and then had seen the sunny skies in town and decided to head off. We felt good about going with fingers crossed mid morning. Today it paid off.
We arrived in town, dumped our gear and headed off with all our debit cards in search of cash. No luck. So we found a bar with a VISA sign on the door and had hot chocolates and shared a slice of cake. Now showered and clothes hung to dry it’s dinner time. We will look for something typically Argentinian tonight! The winds continue to howl and Annemarie tells me they are scheduled to blow all night. We will hunker down in our nice hostel and wait it out. Tomorrow we catch the bus for El Calafate where we will stay two nights and hope the weather holds. We have something special to experience there. Dinner time!
Did I mention that it’s Spring time here? It is, lol.
2 comments:
Another wonderful day to of trekking in a very isolated area of mountains, lakes and rivers.
By the way, I have just checked the map of Chile that you left with us and I think it worthy to note why you aren't able to get any cash from the ATMs!! Really very simple. It is noted on the map that the area in which you are hiking is near the area where Butch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid hung out for a month after robbing the Bank at Rio Gallegos!! No wonder you can't find a place to get cash!!Mystery solved - now its about time for you and Annemarie to come home ....
Dad
What an astonishing day of walking!
Ken
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